Week: Return to Lima for the Third Time and the end of the trip

On Wednesday afternoon I caught my LAN flight from Arequipa back to Lima.  This is my third time flying into Lima in the past 16 days!  I was met at the airport by the driver recommended to me by the airbnb host for my next (and last) two new nights in Lima.  The driver took me to the apartment which is in Miraflores.  The apartment is very nice but unfortunately, I think it was misrepresented online.  Unknown to me, there were three listings for the same apartment for the three bedrooms there.  But photos for all three bedrooms were shown in the listing I rented.  Thus, I thought it was just one big bedroom!  However, it turns out I got the runt of the litter of three.

It is a tiny bedroom but has a decent en suite bathroom.  What makes this all the worst isn't that the other bedrooms are rented by French college guys.  Not to knock them, but it is as if this is a frat house and I am the unwelcomed outsider.  Nevertheless, at least my little part is clean and will survive the two nights.

On Thursday I left about 10 AM and got a taxi to the Larco Museum.  It is the best museum in Lima and is world famous for their ancient Peruvian pottery, clothes and artifacts. What helps make this museum so interesting are all the items descriptions are in multiple languages - including English.  

Unbelievably, this pottery are from about 800BC

This gold crown and chest ornaments are from circa 1300AD

The Larco Museum and is also noted for having their storage area which are open to the publics.  There are any rooms like this

Finally, the museum is also well known for their Inca erotic pottery.  Although I found this interesting, I missed all the informative descriptions.  I guess it was all summed up by a quote they offered from an expert's book on this subject.  The quote was something to the effect that we really don't know much about the circumstances and intend of these figures.  Thus we are all open to our own interpretations!

After the museum, I walked about 5k over to a famous shopping plaza (Polvos Azules ).  It has pirated software and knockoffs of every sort.  Although I didn't buy much of anything here, I enjoyed looking around.  From there, I walked to the nearest Metropolitano Bus station.  These buses are run by natural gas and have their own roadway and stations.  However, I found their stations and routes a bit difficult to understand.  Still, with the help of a transit employee, I managed to get through the turnstile and make my way back to Miraflores.  Of course after Quito, I was ever so alert for pickpockets.  

Once back in Miraflores, I got a good hamburger, fries and ice cream - just like back home.  I then returned to 'my' apartment exhausted.

Today, Friday, August 14, 2015 is my last say in Peru.  As such, I decided to take yet another walking tour.  This was a bit strange as it started in downtown Miraflores and then immediately took the Metroploitano bus to downtown Lima.  There was a group of about 25 of us so coordinating the bus trip was a feat unto itself.  Any way, we toured the historical parts of downtown.  We got to see two of the former railroad stations, one from the inside and the other from the outside.

We were also pointed out to the first of many 'Districts' in Peru.  This is right on the other side of the river from Lima.  

After the tour, I agin took the Metroplitano Bus back to Miraflores and had a late lunch (Pollo Brasil).  It is funny that the famous Peruian chicken we get back home seems to be credited to Brazil here in Lima.  aAfter lunch and another cup ice cream, I went back to 'my' apartment.  The big news here is that the French college guys moved out this morning.  They got a one year lease on another flat.  I can't believe what a difference it is that they are gone and the cleaning gut is here.  It looks entirely different.  I wish I could have had it like this for my two nights here!

Oh well, now I only have to endure the trip home.  First, the taxi to the airport, next the 5 1/2 hour flight to Miama.  Then a quick flick to Tampa before the final flight into DCA.  I am due there tomorrow about 10:30 AM.

Week 4: Arequipa

Monday was my first full day in Arequipa.  I discovered to take a downtown walking tour to get a better overview of the city.  Unfortunately, I wasn't the only one who had this idea.  In fact the English speaking your group was over 35 people.  They also had a Spanish speaking group but that was less than 10.  Any way, the tour started at the main plaza (Plaza de Armas) which has the Santa Catalina Church and Monastry on the north side.

The tour went into one of the city's Catholic Churches, describe the local cuisine and neighborhoods and showed us many different types of architectures.  The tour guide pointed out the three local volcanos from one of the city's bridges.

After the tour, I walked across town to try some creviche at one of the best  local seafood restaurants.  I had a bit of a problem ordering as the waitress' English was worst than my Spanish, if such a thing is possible.  But not to worry, she had a very nice guy come out to help me.  I think he was the owner as he suggested exactly which type to order.  It all was very good.  I didn't accomplish anything else of note on Monday but I enjoyed walking around this city as it seems both safe and interesting.

Since I enjoyed the walking tour on Monday, I decided to take another walking tour on Tuesday.  This time there were only four of us which made the tour even more enjoyable.  I got to speak with each of the other .  A Peruvian from Lima, a girl from south Brazil and a guy from Adelaide, South Australia.  The tour guide has on the green vest.

This tour specialized more in the oldest part of the city.  We got to test samples of local boutique breweries, local potatoes, chocolate, etc.

Here is a typical Peruvian cross outside a Catholic Church.  

Note how they incorporated the sun, moon, sword, etc. into the picture.

We came across this officer who is somewhat of a local celebrity.  I thought we was some sort of volunteer crossing guard with a fancy uniform.  But according to our guide, Carlos, he is actually a police officer who is so well liked by all that they developed a special uniform for him!

After the tour, I decided to tour the convent at Santa Maria.  Here is the inside courtyard.

It is hard to believe this peaceful setting is just inside the walls from a busy city.

Here is a elaborate Christmas Box.  Convents and monasteries used to have such displays to show the history of Christianity.

Week 3: Cusco and onto Arequipa via Lima

Well, after I got back to the hotel on Tuesday, I got a severe case of diarrhea!  It was bad and I didn't eat much of anything for over 2 days.  But fortunately as quickly as it started, it ended after a little less than 16 hours.  I am thinking this too was a result of altitude sickness but I guess I will never note.  Any way, I missed the tour activities on Wednesday, that was titled a 'Day in the Life'.  Apparently they visited an old time weaver, a medicine man and a village where they add a community lunch.  The only thing I accomplished on Wednesday, other than getting a little yogurt for lunch and chicken soup for dinner, was I got a haircut!  Yes, I feel well enough in the afternoon to have that adventure.  Even though she didn't speak much English, I got a pretty decent haircut for just over $3.

On Thursday, I finally feel pretty good and rejoined the OAT tour.  This day we boarded the bus and drove to Tipon, site of ancient Inca waterworks, now a National Park.  Since this site is well hidden from the valley below, the Spanish didn't discover the Incas working and living here until years after their arrival and dominance of the other Incas.  This allowed the Incas here the time enough to build incredible terraces and aqueducts.

 

On each terrace, the Incas bought in soil from a different location that specialized in the crop they intended to grow there.  In addition, a spring at the top provided the water needed for all the terraces. Each terrace was watered by underground aqueducts that flowed water beneath it.  The park people have opened some of these waterways so visitors can appreciate the workmanship.

There was also an option where the Incas could divert water to problem areas.  Obviously they knew what they were doing as water is still flowing here today.

After Tipon, we made our way to a village bakery.  This bakery is a essentially a co-op where 3 family in the village daily rent the facilities, including the work of both the bakery owner and his assistant, for 5 hours a day for only $20.  Of course the renters need to provide the rest of the labor, probably need at least 3 more people, and the supplies necessary for the beard they intend to bake.  I seriously wonder how the owner makes any money from this!  Here he is with his assistant making small loafs for one of the renters.

Still before lunch, we visited Saqsayhuaman and Qengo.  Both of these ruins overlook downtown Cusco.  In fact, these pics are from Sacsayhuaman.

Saqsayhuaman has Inca built rock walls which are one of South America's archaeological treasures.  Massive stone ramparts zigzag some 600 meters across this high plateau.  The zigzag shape is to represent lightening and Saqsayhuaman was a ceremonial centre for the Sun Temple in downtown Cusco.  There is one stone block in this wall that is over 300 tons and was found by researchers to have been carved in place as it may be still attached to the underground formation.  Sadly, much of Saqsayhuaman was destroyed early on by the Spanish as they used many of the smaller stones as cheap material to built the huge cathedral on the main downtown plaza, Armas Plaza.

Pope John II had a huge mass on the hill opposite Saqsayhuaman.  In preparation for that event, Cusco had a huge clean of that area and discovered these terraces and the source for some of the stones used in Saqsayhuaman, all of which were under soil previously.

Qengo on the other hand is a complex pattern of steps, designs, tunnels, caves and altars that were carved out of limestone rocks.  During Inca times, priests would have annual feasts where llamas were sacrificed on the altars.  Then the llamas' blood was poured into a bowl and then into a main channel in the stone ductwork.  If it it flowed to the left side it was a bad omen for the forthcoming year.  Vice versa, if it flowed right, it was a good omen.

After Qengo we went onto lunch where I had alpaca for the first year.  It was pretty good, certainly a lot better than the near insatiable guinea pig we had early in the trip.  After lunch we had free time in which I didn't do anything worth mentioning.

Speaking of free time, we had that again all day Friday.  Originally we were supped to fly to Lima early today and then have a Lima tour.  But OAT said they had to change that due to a flight change.  I may be wrong but I thought OAT was supposed to book us something to do here in Cusco.   But it isn't included in the little book they gave us at the tour start in Lima.  I need to check on that when I get home.  Still, due to the change, OAT has agreed to provide me with Lima accommodations for today and transfers to/fro the airport.

Any way, I spent Friday morning walking about Cusco.  I went to the Inga Museum which was fairly interesting but no photos allowed.  Highlights include nice mummies and photos of the 'rediscovery' of Machu Picchu in 1912.  After that I found the famous twelve point Inca stone.

After lunch we went to the airport for our flight to Lima.  There our group disbanded and most of them boarded red eye flights back to the USA.  But I on the other hand have another whole week here.  OAT provided me shuttle service to and from the Lima airport and the Hotel Jose Antonio Lima.  Although this is the same hotel we stayed previously on the tour, I discovered they have a 'tower' across the street.  I got that tower this time and can report it is a poor cousin to the one I previously stayed.  But I got a decent night sleep and a little breakfast before I caught my morning flight to Arequipa.  I am staying the next four night here in Arequipa at the Majestad Hotel.  I walked about the city this afternoon and booked a one day tour to see the condors at Colca Canyon tomorrow (Sunday).  Colca Canyon is supposedly the deepest canyon in the world but it isn't near as scenic as the Grand Canyon.  

Tomorrow tour is suppose to be entirely in English if I can believe the tour company that sold it to me.  (The guy claims all the other members are from Europe and Australia.  I hope that is true as I hate tours where they try to do it in two languages).  The only really bad thing about the tour is it leaves at 3 AM so we can get in position to see the condors.  So I really have to get up early!

Week 3: Finally Machu Picchu

On Sunday morning we boarded our bus with a overnight bag we packed just for the night.  We were headed again for the town of Ollantatambo. This time we weren't going to tour the town but instead take the Inca Train to Aguas Calients and then a bus onwards to Machu Pichu.  However on the way, we made a stop at a famous chicha brewer.  In case you aren't familiar with chicha, it is a corn brew, in this case alcohic. This is family run business where the brew is made daily.  There are two varieties.  The yellow one is the normal brew and is made primarily for men.  The pink one has strawberries added to the normal yellow brew and is made primarily for women.  For my taste, the yellow one is awful but the pink is at least drinkable.  

We had a little contest and these two fellow tour members were the winners

We the made it to the Ollantatambo's train station, note the beautiful glacier mountains in the background.

On board the train, OAT provided us with a box lunch so we could go directly to Machu Picchu upon arriving in Aguas Calients.  On arrival, OAT arranged for the hotel in Aguas Calients, El Santuario, to pickup our overnight bags.  There was an angry crowd at station trying to get back to  Ollantatambo as they went to Machu Picchu without tickets and couldn't get in.  Now they were struck in Aguas Calients as the train is the only way back to the real world.  But the trains were fully booked!

In the mean time, we were lead directly to the bus stop to take the bus to Machu Picchu.  Besides walking, three local bus companies are the only way to Machu Pichu.  Thus, they have a monopoly and charge $24 RT for the 25 minute trip.  But at least the buses were fairly nice Mercedes which were needed to go over this switch back dirt road.  When we arrival at Machu Pichu, there were literally thousands of people waiting in line for the return trip.  This was puzzling as Peru supposedly has limited the number of attendance daily to 3,000.  But according to Richard, a local guide OAT provided, the real number is closer to 5,000 daily.  Any way, Carmen, our main tour guide, gave us a nice overview of the ruins as we toured the city.  We were one of the last groups of the day to leave.  Fortunately, there really wasn't a line for the bus at that time.

On Monday morning, I and 7 of 8 of my fellow tour members elected to get up early to see sunrise at Machu Picchu.  So at 5:00 AM prompt we left the hotel only to discover a line at the bus stop of thousands.  Richard, the local guide, was with us and he said this was normal this time of the year.  Well, since the buses didn't start running until 5:30 AM, we had a long long wait.  It took us until 6:45 AM to get a bus.  Just in time Carmen, the main guide, and the other tour member to join us.  We couldn't help but feel that Carmen set us up to secure a spot for her without the long wait.  Needless to say, we weren't in time for the sunrise.  But it was so foggy early that day, it made little difference.

So once we arrive at the Park, I join Richard and most of the tour group for a trek to the Sun Gate.  

Well, this turned out to be too much for me.  My breathing got more and more forced.  Finally, about 2/3 the way to the gate I elected to go back.  So I went on my own to the gate house which sets on you of the ruins and allows sights such as this

I was still having difficulty breathing but now my stomach was doing flip flops.  Since I had to wait until 11 AM for the return bus, I still decided to walk to the Inca Bridge.

I saw this overlook of the local hydroelectric plant on the way

After the bridge, I decided I had enough as it was so hot and I was feeling totally lousy. So I made the seemingly long trek back to the park entrance.  I just wanted to sit down in the shade.  Fortunately, one of the other tour members was sitting in the shade by the entrance and I got a seat by her.  Then at 11am the others joined us and we made the trip back to town without any issues.  Next we had lunch provided at a local Aguas Calientes resturant.  But all I could eat was a small bowl of chicken broth and a ginger ale.  We boarded the train at 2:30 PM for the 2 1/2 hour train trip back to Ollantatambo.  The train was very hot due to the weather and lack of A/C.  At Ollantatambo, our bus driver met us for the 2 hour ride to Cusco.  I thought the trip would never end but it did.  We arrived at the Hotel Jose San Antonio Cusco before 7 PM.  Dinner was provided but I ate little as I wanted to get to bed and rest.  Finally about 8 PM I got my wish.  

On awaking this morning, I feel much better.  My stomach is still a bit upset but the breathing is normal.  I just need to take it easy the next few days.  Speaking of that, we did a walking tour of downtown Cusco this morning.  The first stop was the Chapel of Santo Domingo and the Koricanche complex.  The Incas built this temple, their main temple, over bot pre Inca and Inac walls.  Then the Spanish built their chapel over the Inca Temple destroying much of it in the process.  The Inca temple had it walls lined with gold, silver, and alloy metals.  The Spanish took all this metal for themselves and then painted the walls with frescos. There is little left today of these frescos.

This is the whole comple.  Note the relatively poor construction of the walls on the bottom (pre Inca), the better construction of next higher wall (normal Inca contruction)' the really nice wall 3/4 of the way up (Inca temple contruction) and finally the Spanish for their chapel.

Some of the remains of the Inca temple

The courtyard in the chapel with the Inca temple ruins on both sides

The we walked to the mani plaza, Plaza de Armas.  There are Catholic Churches all around the city including this one on the plaza

But none can compare to the Cathedral.

This massive church was started in 1560 in the shape of a Latin cross with a 3 sided nave supported by only 14 pillars.  It took over 150 years to compare - lengthened a bit by the 1650 earthquake. To say this church is huge is an understatement.  Not only is it the largest in Peru, it is the 5th largest Catholic Church in the world.  Everywhere you look inside there is another chapel. Unfortunately, photos were not permitted.

After lunch, we toured the Koricancha Site Museum.  This was an odd underground housed in many small rooms.  It had several nice Peruian mummies but many of their other exhibits were duplicates of what we saw in the big archaeology museum in Lima.  After the museum, I went back to the hotel to continuing my recuperation.

Week 2: Lima and the Sacred Valley

On Thursday morning, OAT got us a local guide for a tour of the city of Lima.  We started the tour at the National Museum of Archaeology.  This is a very nice museum that contains an impressive collection of ceramics, gold, silver and textile items from ancient cultures up through the Incas.  What caught my eyes was this textile used to wrap a body from about 900AD

And this display of scullers.  The first one shows a gold plate covering a man made hole in the a hull.  This plate was inserted while the person was living and he or she lived many more years.  There are many examples of this type of surgery where the experts cannot agree on the reason for it.  Some spectate that it was for religious purposes (even though the holes were in different places in the skulls) while others believe it was for medical reason (but there were seemingly too many for this).  Whatever, it is interesting phenomenon.

The other skills show how some people manipulated their children's' skulls to elongate them or flatten them to denote their higher class.

After the museum, we toured the San Francisco Church.  This seventeenth century church has catacombs that weren't discovered in recent history until 1951.  These crypts contain roughly seventy thousand skeleton as the wealthy basically paid their way to be buried under the church.  We had a nice guided tour through the monastery and catacombs but no photos were allowed.  I did get pics of the outside and the inside of the church.

Next was the Plaza Mayor, the center of the old town.  This fountain in the middle of the plaza is from which all distances in Peru are measured.  

The plaza also borders on the Presidential Palace where we saw a bit of the changing of the guard.  This ceremony was oddly done behind an iron fence and away from any decent angle for photos.

On Friday morning, we got our bus and when to the airport for the flight to Cusco.  The Lima airport was one of the most congested airports I have ever seen.  I really don't relish the fact that I will need to go back there twice more before I return home.  Anyway, our flight to Cusco was just a little late due to trying to get some Japanese tourists out of the emergency exit row.  It seems they saw this row empty and decided to move to it. They didn't want to move and they couldn't speak any Spanish and very little English.  Oh well, finally they moved...

On arrival to Cusco, we got into our bus and drove to the Sacred Valley.

These are Inca Ruins showing the stone terraces they built and the buildings where their engineers lived.  It is amazing how well built these structures are.

Our hotel for the next two nights is San Agustin Urubamba Hotel in Urubamba.

This morning (Saturday), we headed for the Urubamba River where we took a rubber raft float down the river.  This hour trip was much nicer than I expect as we needed to do little paddling and the scenery, between the mountains and Inca ruins, was spectacular!  After this hour voyage, we went to the town of Ollantaytambo.  This town still has ancient baths and Inca structures everywhere.  

We got to climb up the town's huge terraces and explored its hilltop temples.

We also got to see inside an ancient house still be used.  Note all the cuys (guinea pigs) all around.  These are not pets!

Carmen, our tour guide is on the left, and the lady owner of the house on the right.

After this adventure, we went to a local person's house for a huge lunch of veggies and a cuy.  We got to 'experience' the whole process of preparing the cuy - killing, skinning, gutting and cooking.  

I got to say the lunch was good but not the cuy.  My piece was extremely tough and hard to chew - it didn't taste so great either!  I don' see cuy having a prominent place in my menu.  

Oh well, it was nice to meet this family.  It seems that OAT sponsors this family and pays them well for their participation under their foundation program.  This will be a 5 year program for the family.  After that, OAT will sponsor another local family to replace them.